Tacombi at Fonda Nolita 267 Elizabeth Street (Prince Street), (917.727-0179, www.tacombi.com). This restaurant doesn’t feel as much like a restaurant, but more like an art installation with a taqueria in the middle a concrete garage near Houston Street.
Tacos are served in a vintage Volkswagen van
Tacos are served in a vintage Volkswagen van that opens like a shoebox lid. You exchange cash for chips at a counter and then line up at the van to get your food.
It works. It’s supposed to bring back memories of Yucatan beach eating — the van was previously parked in Playa del Carmen south of Cancun. The lights are strung up so that you feel like you’re outside. Potted plants add tropical greenery and color to the garage. You’ll be able to tell by the shoes in the room that this is one of New York City’s most fashionable areas.
The menu changes frequently and is very simple. Tacos, tamales, and occasionally a tostada are all available. The cost of all three is $3.69 which comes out to $4 plus tax. All drinks cost $2.76 or $3 with tax.
Breakfast tacos with eggs on corn tortillas are available in the morning. Coffee is made on-demand on Chemex. The van makes tacos with braised beef or seared chicken or marinated fish in the afternoon.
There are some tacos that are better than others: sweet corn with poblano and queso fresco are bright and fresh; beef short ribs are rich and succulent — but none of these is worthy to be voted the best in the city.
It’s more comfortable than it is extraordinary. This is not a bad thing if you have fresh horchata, an aluminium plate with braised pork tacos, and a chicken Tamale.
Cascabel Taqueria is located just a few zip codes away. It can be reached at (212) 717-2226, nyctacos.com.
It transformed from a restaurant and bar to a bar with food when it moved to a bigger space just a few doors from where it was originally located.
Cascabel Taqueria is the most popular place for foreigners to go for a guacamole fix. While Tacombi @ Fonda Nolita may be a cute dive spot on the beach, Cascabel Taqueria is the best.
The eternal spring-break energy is intense at night when an after-work crowd orders crab fritters with piquillo aioli ($8) and cucumber-and-cilantro margaritas ($9). Customers waiting to be served huddle near the entrance, looking for a table or stool at one of the counters.
It’s basically the same food as it was when it was on the block. The Costilla de Carne ($5) is the best option. It’s a braised short rib that has been cooked to the bone until it melts.
The Costilla de Carne ($5) is a large serving that’s rich and flavorful. It comes with a puree made of cumin and chilli. Two is enough to put you to bed.
There are starters and salads as well as roasted chicken ($12.50), and hanger steak ($14.50). The tacos ($8.50) are the star of the show. There are eight options: chicken with chipotle and crispy yellowfin; braised veal tongue; braised chicken breasts; and house-made Chorizo.
The simpler, the better. Carnitas and carne asada are delicious and satisfying. Roasted shrimp or oyster mushrooms with fingerling potatoes don’t make sense.
The atmosphere is just as important as the food. Order queso fond to ($6.50), a bowl with molten cheese and chorizo, and stay clear of the gorditas made with Berkshire pork ($7). You can also watch the soccer matches on the flat screens located above the bar.
Cascabel Taqueria doesn’t aim to be the best Mexican restaurant in New York. It wants to make you have a great time.
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